This evening marks the beginning of Rosh Hashana, which celebrates the Jewish New Year. I spent the better part of Monday and Tuesday trying to resurrect my mother and grandmother in the kitchen. As if any amount of cloves, cinnamon, and apples could do that. This time of year is one of my favorites, ripe with nostalgic autumnal feelings, and the promise of a new year, but it’s also bittersweet. My sister and I were begrudgingly dubbed the matriarchs of our family after the passing of our mother in our early twenties and beloved grandma four years ago. The holidays have felt different since. There’s an unmooredness to everything – hence the desired resurrection.
So I’m pouring myself into cakes, cookies, and kugels. Kugel is a Jewish casserole, usually noodles mixed with an absurd amount of dairy and a hint of sweetness like raisins. However, this year, I’m opting for a potato kugel. An attempt to make gastrointestinal peace at the holiday table. I’m hosting friends after services to snack on my grandma’s famous coffee cake, honey cake, and a New York Time’s version of a poppyseed bundt. The only good thing about cooking with ghosts is that they don’t put up much of a fight — I don’t have to tell my grandma that Yetta’s recipe used too much Crisco, so I opted for this version instead.
My mom and grandmother led with love, hope, and kindness whenever they could. It is how I intend to usher in 5785. This past year has been heart wrenching due to the war in Israel and Gaza. If there is anyone to lead us out of this darkness it is the women who will light the way. Women like those here.
To all those celebrating, I wish you a Shana Tovah, and to those who aren’t may I offer you the recipe below – to a more peaceful year.
My mom didn't cook, but I still make my grandma's kugel every year with canned peaches for extra sweetness....and now Jenna makes it. These traditions are some of the best things that we can pass down to keep the memories of our loved ones alive. It's truly amazing how food and cooking can conjure up so many memories and thoughts. Now I am smiling thinking of your mom and your grandma. Happy New Year, Nicolde. May it bring happiness and peace.
Love you Nicole You are making your mom and Grandma Eileen proud Shana’s Tovah !